*Making a proof sheet -- If you've processed your own film, you have already prepared the stop bath and fixer. Mix
the developer according to the instructions. Be sure to label jars as DEKTOL Developer, Stop Bath (or Stop), and
Fixer. Make up a working solution by diluting your prepared developer with water as recommended on the package.
Pour it into a jar labeled DEKTOL Developer and start with step 2.
Step 2 -- Stabilize the developer at 68° F (20° C) by pouring about 32 oz (946 mL) into your graduate and placing it
into a tray of cool or warm water. Next pour it into a tray labeled Developer to a depth of about 1/2 inch.
Step 3 -- Stabilize the stop bath at 65° to 75° F (18° to 24° C) and pour about 1/2 inch into a tray labeled Stop Bath or
Stop.
Step 4 -- Stabilize the fixer at 65° to 75° F (18° to 24° C) and pour about 1/2 inch into a tray labeled Fixer. Note: It's a
good idea to rinse your graduate after steps 2, 3 and 4.
Step 5 -- Arrange your trays in front of you so that, from left to right, you have developer, stop bath, and fixer. Then
rinse your hands well and dry them thoroughly. Turn off all lights except for the safelight. The safelight should
be placed at least 4 feet from your working area.
Step 6 -- Open the package of paper, remove one sheet, and close the package again so that light can't get in. Place
your negatives so that their dull side faces the emulsion (usually shiny) side of the paper. The negatives should be
near the light source. Cover with glass.
Step 7 -- If you're using a printing frame and a 7-watt bulb to make your proof sheet, hang the bare bulb 2 feet above
the frame and turn it on for about 10 seconds. You may have to experiment a bit (see step 12) to get the correct
exposure time for your negatives.
Step 8 -- If you're using an enlarger, place the empty negative carrier in the enlarger, and set the lens at f/11. Adjust
the enlarger so that the light covers an area just a bit larger than your paper. Expose for about 8 seconds. Again, you
may have to experiment to get the correct exposure time.
Step 9 -- Remove the paper from your printing device with your left hand (don't get the right one wet with
developer) and slide the paper, emulsion side up, into the developer (left-hand tray). Rock the tray gently for 1
minute by tipping up first one end, then the other.
Step 10 -- Take the paper out of the developer with your left hand, and after letting it drain for a second or two, slide
it into the stop bath solution (center tray). Agitate the tray for 5 seconds in the same manner you did in step 9.
Step 11 -- With your right hand, withdraw the paper from the stop bath and slip it into the fixer. Agitate frequently
for 2 minutes, and keep it separated from any other prints in the tray. After the print has been in the fixer for 25-30
seconds, you can turn on the room lights.
Step 12 -- Examine your proof sheet and if most of the pictures seem too light, try again with double the exposure
time you used at first. If most of the pictures seem too dark, use half the exposure time. It's a good idea to keep
notes on your exposure times and the results. You'll soon be able to come up with a good average exposure time to
use.
Step 13 -- Using your fourth tray, wash the print for only 4 minutes at 64° to 75° F (18° to 24° C). The KODAK
Automatic Tray Siphon provides continuous agitation.
Step 14 -- Sponge or squeegee the surface water from both sides of the print and place it onto a flat surface to dry at
room temperature.