Day 91
Miles Hiked Today — 5.7
Total Trail Miles — 1052.8

Tumbling Run Shelters

We got a ride back to the Trail with a pharmaceutical rep on his lunchbreak. What a nice guy. He had to make two trips to get the four of us (Tea, Brooklyn, Duff, and myself) from town to the Trail and we were very appreciative. I hiked on ahead while the others hung out at the road for a while. We agreed to meet at this shelter. I hope they arrive or it will be a lonely night for me.

The shelters in southern PA are "double shelters." Rather than having one shelter, these sites have two small ones.

I guess that I'm feeling that very familiar Trail melancholy. My feet are so tired and all my joints are achy today.

As I get farther north, I'm struck by how much more "civilized" the Trail is. If I tried really hard, I could probably spend every night for the next few weeks in a hotel. There are tons of road crossings and plenty of little towns to visit. But of course, I won't stay in town every day. This trip is already far more expensive than I had expected.

Day 92
Miles Hiked Today — 9.5
Total Trail Miles - 1062.3

Caledonia State Park Campground

I had a great dinner at Taormina's Italian Restaurant. Once again, I'm being spoiled. My latest running joke with my friends is that it's going to be hotels for me all the way to Maine! Just a joke, though. I'm sleeping outside tonight.

Day 93
Miles Hiked Today — 20.1
Total Trail Miles — 1082.4

Ironmaster's Mansion Hostel

I woke up this morning resolved to hike my own schedule. As much as I'd have liked to stay with TeaTree and Brooklyn, I've been getting frustrated. When they wanted to do big miles, I felt like going slowly and when they slowed down, I wanted to speed up.

As I left the campground on my own, I felt pretty low and angry with myself for letting another goodbye get me down. I should be used to hiking out on my own, not knowing if I'll be alone for the night. I should be strong enough not to care if I'm alone. But I'm not. Maybe I'm too hard on myself. At least now I know that I'm not really a loner!

Today's hike was so beautiful! I hiked on sand and rocks over southern PA's gently rolling ridges. Beautiful pine trees were arranged in different formations. The white A.T. blazes on the reddish bark of these conifers make a stark contrast.

Day 94
Miles Hiked Today — 15.5
Total Trail Miles — 1097.9

Alex Kennedy Shelter

After hiking about seven miles by myself, I joined Opto and Pop-Pop. We walked a few more miles to a small grocery store where Pop-Pop decided to try the "Half-Gallon Challenge." This thru-hiker tradition is normally attempted at the Pine Grove Furnace General Store, but this year hikers are boycotting them because they are charging $6.50 for a half-gallon of ice cream. Every year, many thru-hikers see how fast they can eat a half-gallon of ice cream. As a vegan I didn't take part, but it was fun to watch as Pop-Pop, Tabasco, and Hemlock gorged themselves on ice cream.

Tomorrow we cross the famous Yellow Breeches Creek and head into Boiling Springs for breakfast. Then it's on to an interesting spot, the bridge over the PA turnpike. For years I traveled on the turnpike, dreaming what it would be like to hike the Trail and stand up there on that bridge. It should be fun to be there at last. Opto has volunteered to take pictures.

Day 95
Miles Hiked Today — 18.2
Total Trail Miles — 1116.1

Darlington's Shelter

Today was excellent! After hiking with Pop-Pop and Opto for the past few days, I'm feeling so good. They are really uplifting people. For the first time in a while, I'm actually excited about hiking again.

Our hike took us through lots of farmland and meadows. We hiked between rows of soybeans and corn in the morning sun. What an amazing, beautiful day! I never realized how pretty Pennsylvania's farmlands are.

The shelter we're staying at tonight has no water, so Pop-Pop and Preacher hauled about 20 pounds of water up to the shelter. It was quite a climb! They were rewarded with two beers, courtesy of friends of Hemlock and Tabasco. Pop-Pop and Preacher were SO happy!

The spiders are dive-bombing from the trees onto my tent. I can hear them rustling in the leaves. Back to town tomorrow - Duncannon, "The Jewel of the Susquehanna."

Day 96
Miles Hiked Today — 11.4
Total Trail Miles —1127.5

Duncannon's Riverfront Campground

It turns out that Duncannon is not "the jewel" of anything. I'm in my tent listening to the trucks blaring by, about 50 feet from where I sit. The noise may keep me up all night. My traveling companions are at the famous (in thru-hiker circles) Doyle Hotel. Believe it or not, this hotel is too seedy for me. I have my limits!

We had our first taste of the infamous Pennsylvania rocks today. They weren't quite as bad as I had expected.

Opto is becoming a great confidante - I'd like to say a great friend, but Trail life is somewhat different from real life. She urges me to follow my instincts and I think that her encouragement is good for me. I hope she gets as much out of our talks as I do.

Day 97
Miles Hiked Today — 11.3
Total Trail Miles —1138.8

Peter's Mountain Shelter

It's been a challenge trying to adjust to the heat and humidity here in PA. I'm having a very hard time hiking during the afternoon heat.

Pennsylvania has some nice views, but it also has a lot of rocks and the water sources are quite far from the shelters. Water has become a very precious commodity.

Day 98
Miles Hiked Today — 17.5
Total Trail Miles 1156.3

Rausch Gap Shelter

Not many views today. Just lots of rocks and little water.

I'm still hiking with Opto and enjoying her company. She has told me a lot of neat stories about her career as an officer in the Air Force. What an interesting woman! Her positive attitude has really inspired me.

Day 99
Miles Hiked Today — 13.3
Total Trail Miles — 1169.6

William Penn Shelter

Pop-Pop, Opto, and I were hiking by 7:00 a.m. so we could meet some friends of Opto's at a nearby road crossing. Steve and his daughters, Kim and Kristen, arrived around 10:00 a.m. and took us out for breakfast at Funck's Diner. Opto was so nice to invite me along. I had a great time talking to Kim and Kristen about horseback riding and to Steve about his work. After being on the Trail for so long, I really appreciate just talking to folks.

The rest of the hiking day went very slowly. It's been hot and humid again and the Pennsylvania rocks continue to be a challenge for my feet. By the time we reached our camping spot, my feet felt as if they were pounded down to stubs.

Day 100
Miles Hiked Today — 4.2
Total Trail Miles — 1173.8

501 Shelter

After today's short hike, I have fewer than 1,000 miles to go! Pop-Pop, Opto, and I decided to celebrate by going into nearby Pine Grove, PA for lunch. Little did we know that Pine Grove proper has no restaurants.

We asked a woman who was trimming her hedges how far it was to the nearest restaurant. She told us that there was a great place called The Red Lion about a mile up the road. An hour later we were still walking with no restaurant in sight.

Opto decided to knock on the door of a cute little farmhouse to ask for directions. The woman inside told us that we were still .7 of a mile away from the restaurant. Dejected, we decided to hitch the rest of the way. A few minutes later the woman came outside to tell us that her husband would give us a ride. Not only did he drive us there, he left instructions for the hostess to call him when we were finished eating so he could give us a ride back to the Trail. What a great guy!

So, stuffed and happy, we headed back to route 501 and the 501 shelter. We decided to stay the night because of severe thunderstorm warnings. We were glad we made this decision when golf-ball-sized hail started falling around 4:00 p.m.