Day 21
Miles Hiked Today - 15
Total Trail Miles - 177

Russell Field Shelter

I entered the Smokies today and it's beautiful here! It's quite a milestone for my thru-hike. We passed 168.1 miles today, which means that we have less than 2000 miles to go. Here in the Smokies there are bear cables and a cage on the front of the shelter. A bear cable is a wire and pulley system used to hang your food bags at night, so the bears can't get to them.

Day 22
Miles Hiked Today - 16
Total Trail Miles - 193.0

Double Springs Gap Shelter

Today was a long day and I'm happy to be snug in my sleeping bag right now. We did about 16 miles, hiking from 8:15 a.m. to almost 8:00 p.m. I hiked all day with Samurai -he's a great hiking partner since we move at about the same pace. Plus we have great conversations. I talk about Scott and he talks about his girlfriend. It helps us get through the pain of being separated from them.

Day 23
Miles Hiked Today - 10.8
Total Trail Miles - 203.8

Grand Prix Motel (Gatlinburg, TN)

Today marks two major milestones. I passed the 200-mile mark and I climbed over the highest peak on the whole A.T., Clingman's Dome. While I was in the Dome's observation tower taking pictures, I spotted three people pushing a wheelbarrow up the paved path from the parking lot. It was trail magic! Wasabi, a 2000 thru-hiker, and two of his friends, wheeled a barbeque up to Clingman's Dome to treat us to sodas, snacks, and burgers for the omnivores. Thank you Wasabi, Rebecca, and Rob.

Day 24
Miles Hiked Today - 3
Total Trail Miles - 206.8

Ice Water Springs Shelter

After discovering the veggie delite sub at Subway yesterday, I had to have another one today before we left Gatlinburg. We all finished our town chores and ate as much town food as we could pack in. We notice now that we have "town gut" after town visits!

We couldn't wait to get out of Gatlinburg! After being out in the woods for so long, the Las Vegas-like atmosphere in Gatlinburg was completely overwhelming.

Tonight the three of us (TeaTree, Samurai, and I) are sleeping under Samurai's tarp. It's pretty nerve-racking to be sleeping out in the open with all the bears around, but the shelter is full tonight.

Day 25
Miles Hiked Today - Not Available
Total Trail Miles - Not Available

During break at Peck's Corner Shelter

A Day in the Life of Sneetch's 5 Senses

Sound

• many different birds (I wish I knew their names.)
• the wind blowing through the trees
• the creaky, squeaky sounds of my backpack. Sometimes the straps on the back of the pack slap onto the pack, in unison with my stride.

Sight

• Today is perfectly clear and sunny in the Smokies. I may have to rename them the Sunnies!

Smell

• heavy, sweet smell of the pine forest
• dry air that smells like dirt
• my skin that smells like dried sweat

Touch

• soft pine needles under my feet
• fuzzy moss on the forest floor (I've rubbed my face on it many times!)
• small twigs brushing against my gaiter-covered legs

Taste

• breakfast: cinnamon raisin bagel with tons of peanut butter; 2 chocolate breakfast bars (vegan, of course), some dried pineapple
• snack: ˝ Carrot Cake Cliff Car; Cranberry Odwalla Bar
• lunch: cinnamon raisin bagel with peanut butter; soy rocks (soy flour covered with chocolate); about 15 dark chocolate pastilles; some dried fruit
• snack: tofurkey jerky
• dinner: cinnamon raisin bagel with peanut butter (Why not stick with a good thing?); mashed potatoes with gravy, peas, and corn; dried fruit; soy rocks; and the rest is a blur. Thru-hikers eat a lot!!!

Day 26
Miles Hiked Today - Not available
Total Trail Miles -229.9

Mt. Commerer Fire Tower

Everyday I feel something different, see something different, think about something different . . . I can't begin to describe it all.

• Like the intense elation I felt the other day when Samurai and I hitched the 16 miles into Gatlinburg in the back of a pickup truck on a picture-perfect day.
• Like the sadness I felt when two of my friends had to leave the Trail because of a death in their family.
• Like the amazement I felt today looking down on the Smokies from the highest point around.
• Like the frustration I felt after crawling under the 5th blowdown yesterday.

Day 27
Miles Hiked Today - 14.8
Total Trail Miles - 244.7

Groundhog Creek Shelter

Saw a 4 foot black snake. Cried near the top of Snowbird Mtn. thinking, "What the heck am I doing out here?"

My knees feel better, but now my ankles hurt.

I've noticed lately that I've stopped thinking about getting to Mt. Katahdin. I don't think about Maine or Vermont or Pennsylvania. I'm learning the art of living in the present moment. I think that this is very good for me. I've always been so achievement-oriented, always thinking about what's next instead of now. I like this way better.

Day 28
Miles Hiked Today - 26.2
Total Trail Miles - 270.9

Elmer's in Hot Springs, NC

Today is my birthday! For a few days I've had this crazy notion that I wanted to hike 26 miles on my 26th birthday. When I woke up this morning, it was pouring rain. My spirits were pretty low considering it was my birthday, my family and friends were far away, and it was raining.

I didn't plan it, but there it was. Hot Springs was 26 miles away, it was my 26th birthday, and I had started my thru-hike with the goal of doing at least one marathon-length day. Somehow it all came together. Samurai agreed to walk with me. I really didn't expect to make it all the way. 26 miles is a long way to walk, but with a 35-pound backpack and a whole lot of mountains on the way, it is sheer insanity. But I was determined to talk to Scott on my birthday.

We had a quick lunch with many friends (TeaTree, Zach, Cusi, and 2 Treax among others) at Max Patch, which is a bald. A bald is a mountain with no trees on top. I saw the sun set at around the 23-mile mark and we hiked the last 3 miles in near-darkness, too excited to use our flashlight. At the end, I felt like I was flying. I didn't need to see the Trail, I could sense it. When I came over the final ridge and saw the lights of Hot Springs, I knew that my birthday wish was coming true.

Day 29
Miles Hiked Today - 0
Total Trail Miles - 270.9

Elmer's in Hot Springs, NC

No Journal Entry Today

Day 30
Miles Hiked Today - 0
Total Trail Miles - 270.9

Elmer's in Hot Springs, NC

I'm staying at Elmer's and eating wonderful vegan food. I also got my hair cut short! I was eating dinner at the Bridge St. Café here in town and I asked a waitress where I could go to get my hair cut. She told me that there was no place to do that, but that she would be happy to cut my hair for me. She gave me a great shaggy cut in the parking lot behind the outfitter.

I've bought myself new shoes to hike in instead of boots, and a bunch of other goodies.

Yesterday Samurai, TeaTree and I went into the famous Hot Springs. It was heavenly!